Growing tomatoes from seed is easy and rewarding, especially with the right setup! Before you begin, gather a few extra tools to make the process smoother:

• Tweezers or a small spoon to create holes in the soil.
• A tray to catch any soil spills.
• A cup of water to expand the coir pucks.
• A spray bottle to mist the soil and keep it evenly moist.

Place them in a container and slowly pour water over the pucks, allowing them to expand. Stir gently to create a light, even soil mix. Do not oversaturate. Divide between the 6 pots.

Use tweezers, spoon, or even a fingertip to create a small hole in the soil at the appropriate depth:

• Sweetie Cherry Tomato – 6 mm (¼ inch)
• Beef Steak Tomato – 6 mm (¼ inch)
• Roma VF Tomato – 6 mm (¼ inch)

Drop 5 or so seeds per pot into the hole. Be sure to mark each pot in some way so you can remember which variety is which.

Cover the seeds with a layer of soil, making sure not to press too much. You want the soil to remain somewhat fluffy and not too compressed.

Using your spray bottle, or watering can, mist or water the surface of the soil to create a "seal." This helps keep moisture in without disturbing the seeds. You want the soil to be saturated, so a watering can may be easiest!

Now that your seeds are planted, they’re ready to grow! In the next section, we’ll cover The Setup, including where to place your pots for the best results.

Your seeds are planted—now it's time to help them thrive! Here’s how to care for your seedlings as they sprout and grow.

Tomato seedlings need consistent moisture, but not too much. Water whenever the surface starts to dry out. The goal is damp, not soaked—overwatering can lead to issues like mold or root rot.

Higher humidity helps reduce how often you need to water. Here are some ways to increase humidity:

• Use a humidity dome or plastic wrap over the pots, but remove it once seedlings emerge.
• Group your pots together to create a more humid microclimate.
• Place a shallow dish of water nearby (not under the pots) to help maintain moisture in the air.

However, airflow is just as important! Without it, excess moisture can cause mold to grow on the soil or pots. If this happens, don’t panic—check out the Troubleshooting section for easy solutions. A gentle fan on low or briefly opening a window can help keep air moving and prevent mold from forming.

Your seeds will start to germinate in 7-14 days, depending on the variety. Be patient—once you see tiny green shoots, you're on your way

3. Be Patient and Watch Them Grow

At this stage, your tomatoes are developing their first true leaves. This is a crucial period—continue keeping them hydrated and make sure they aren’t overcrowded (we’ll talk about thinning soon).

With proper care, your seedlings will be ready for the next step in no time. Up next: Thinning Out and Hardening—how to prepare your young plants for outdoor life!

Take a close look at the sprouts in each pot. Choose the strongest one based on these factors:

• A thicker stem
• Well-developed leaf structure
• Taller growth (but not overly leggy)

Once you've selected the best seedling, remove the others.

Use tweezers or small scissors to carefully snip them off at the base—this prevents disturbing the roots of the remaining seedling.

• Avoid pulling seedlings out by hand, as this can damage the root system of the plant you’re keeping.

Now that each pot has a single, strong seedling, return them to their growing space.

Continue caring for them by maintaining proper moisture and airflow.

Once your seedlings are strong and growing well indoors, it's time to transition them to outdoor conditions. This process, called hardening off, helps prevent transplant shock by gradually exposing the plants to natural sunlight, wind, and temperature fluctuations.

About 7-10 days before transplanting, place your seedlings outside in a shaded, sheltered area for 1-2 hours.

Bring them back inside afterward.

Each day, increase the amount of time your seedlings spend outside.

Gradually expose them to more direct sunlight and gentle wind.

Be mindful of temperature drops—avoid leaving them out in temperatures below 10°C (50°F).

By the end of the hardening-off period, your seedlings should be able to stay outside for a full day and night. Ensure they are protected from strong winds and heavy rain during this transition.

After this process, your seedlings will be ready for transplanting into your garden! Next up: Planting Outdoors—how to give your tomatoes the best start in their new home.

Tomatoes love warmth and sunshine! When selecting a location, keep these factors in mind:

• Full sun: Choose a spot that gets at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight per day.
• Well-drained soil: Avoid areas where water tends to pool. Tomatoes prefer loose, fertile soil.
• Sheltered location: Protect young plants from strong winds while they establish themselves.

Check spacing before you create holes for your new plants:

• Roma VF Tomato (Determinate): 60 cm (24 inches) apart – Determinate tomatoes grow to a fixed height and produce fruit all at once.
• Beef Steak Tomato (Indeterminate): 90 cm (36 inches) apart – Indeterminate tomatoes continue growing and producing fruit throughout the season.
• Sweetie Cherry Tomato (Semi-Determinate): 60 cm (24 inches) apart – Semi-determinate varieties have traits of both, growing bushy but producing fruit over time.

Dig a hole deep enough to bury the stem up to the first set of leaves. This encourages strong root development.

Plant the entire pot directly into the soil. The pot will naturally break down over time, allowing roots to grow through.

Gently fill the hole with soil, pressing lightly to remove air pockets.

Water thoroughly after transplanting to help the roots settle in.

Staking or caging is recommended for Beef Steak and Sweetie Cherry tomatoes to prevent sprawling and promote airflow.

If your seedlings are growing tall and thin, they may not be getting enough light or are reaching for a light source that’s too weak.

Solution:

• Ensure they are receiving at least 12-16 hours of bright light per day.
• If using grow lights, move them closer (keep them 2-3 inches above the seedlings).
• Rotate pots regularly to encourage even growth.

If your seedlings appear pale, yellowing, or weak, they may need extra nutrients.

Solution:

• When tomato seedlings first sprout, they have small, rounded seed leaves (cotyledons). The true leaves are the next set of leaves that develop, which look more like traditional tomato plant leaves.
• Once the first set of true leaves appear, use a diluted organic fertilizer (half-strength) every 10-14 days.
• Avoid over-fertilizing.

White mold on your biodegradable pots is due to poor air circulation and excess moisture. Don’t worry—this is harmless and easy to fix.

Solution:

• Increase air circulation by using a small fan on low.
• Let the pots dry slightly between waterings.
• Spritz the mold lightly with a white vinegar and water mix or a hydrogen peroxide/water solution (1:10 ratio).

If you notice an earthy or woodsy scent, that’s just the natural spruce fiber breaking down. It’s completely normal!

Solution:

• If the smell is strong and unpleasant, increase airflow around the pots.
• Using a humidity dome can help contain the scent while keeping moisture levels stable.
• The scent will fade over time as the pots continue to break down naturally.